If you haul steel long enough, you're going to hear them called all kinds of names. Some drivers call them coil racks. Some call them coil bunks. Others call them coil cradles.
Whatever you call them, they all do the same job — and it's one of the most important jobs on the trailer. They're helping keep thousands of pounds of steel from rolling.
That's not something I take lightly. Under the coil rule, stopping that roll is required before a single chain goes on — I walk through the whole method in my guide to securing steel coils.
Brand doesn't matter — strength doesI Don't Have a Favorite Brand
People ask me every once in a while what brand of coil bunks I recommend. To be honest, I really don't have a favorite.
Most of the quality bunks are built to do the same thing. As long as they're made well, they're going to perform the job they're designed to do.
What matters more to me isn't the name stamped on them. It's whether they're built strong enough to handle the weight they're carrying.
Buy qualityDon't Buy Junk — I've Seen What Cheap Wood Does
This is one place I wouldn't try to save money.
I've seen some cheap bunks over the years that looked like they were made out of little more than scrap wood. And I've seen firsthand what happens when weak wood is what's holding steel.
I ran steel tubes through the oil field once, and the manufacturer had built the blocking that kept those stacks of tubes from rolling out of cheap wood and cheap nails. It didn't hold. The wood gave, the nails pulled, and those tubes rolled. I had to call a 5-ton wrecker out to restack the whole load before I could move. That's a day gone, a bill owed, and a load of steel on the ground — all because somebody upstream saved a few dollars on lumber and nails.
That's the lesson burned into me: the equipment holding steel is only as good as the weakest piece of wood in it. It might save you a few dollars today. But remember what it's supporting — thousands, and sometimes tens of thousands, of pounds of steel. If one fails, you're not just risking damage to the load. You're risking your truck. Your livelihood. Your life. And the lives of everyone sharing the highway with you.
Spend the extra money and buy quality equipment. It's cheaper than living with the consequences of a failure — I've paid for that wrecker, and I'd rather pay for good bunks.
Carry plentyHow Many Should You Carry?
If you're planning to haul steel regularly, here's my advice. Carry at least 16 coil bunks. That's the minimum I'd want on my trailer.
Over the years, you'll probably collect more. Some steel mills and manufacturers will give you a few from time to time. Others may let you keep the ones that came with the load. Before long, you'll have a nice collection.
And that's a good thing. Because there are plenty of days when sixteen won't be enough.
Every load changesEvery Load Is Different
Most coils require around three bunks per coil. But that's not always the case.
Let's say you've got a load of twelve baby coils. Now you're talking about twenty-four bunks if each coil needs two. If you only have sixteen on the trailer, you've got a problem before you ever throw the first chain.
That's why I tell new drivers not to stop collecting bunks once they have enough for one load. Steel loads change. The more prepared you are, the fewer headaches you'll have.
The gearWhat I'd Put Under a Coil Today
Like I said, I don't chase brand names on bunks — I care that they're built strong. If I were stocking my trailer today, here's how I'd think about buying them.
Buy in bulk if you haul steel regularly — Mytee Coil Racks (10-Pack)
10-Pack33" Long10-gauge steelIf you haul steel regularly, buy them in bulk. You need at least 16 to start and you'll want more, so a 10-pack gets you most of the way there in one purchase instead of piecing them together one at a time.
Shop the Mytee 10-Pack →Build up a pair at a time — VULCAN Coil Rack (Pair)
Sold in pairsHeavy dutyTop-off optionIf you'd rather build up your collection a pair at a time, or you need to top off what you've already got, buying them in pairs works too.
Shop the VULCAN Pair →A solid alternate brand — US Cargo Control Coil Racks
Heavy dutySheet steelSame jobAnd here's a good alternate brand if the others are out of stock or you want to compare — same job, built to hold.
Shop US Cargo Control coil racks →Whichever you buy, the rule from up above still applies: get ones built strong enough for the weight, and don't cheap out on the piece of equipment that's keeping a coil from rolling.
Make them lastTake Care of Them
Coil bunks don't require a lot of maintenance. But they do deserve some respect. When I'm not using mine, I try to keep them:
- Clean
- Dry
- Stacked neatly
- Out of standing water whenever possible
If you take care of them, they'll last for years. If you throw them around, leave them soaking in mud, or let them rot under the trailer, don't be surprised when they don't hold up.
Like everything else on a flatbed, your equipment lasts longer when you take care of it.
Inspect firstInspect Them Before Every Load
I don't just grab a bunk and throw it under a coil. I give it a quick inspection. I'm looking for:
- Cracks
- Splits
- Crushed edges
- Rot
- Loose pieces
- Anything that makes me question its strength
It only takes a few seconds. Those few seconds can prevent a much bigger problem later.
This is probably the biggest point I want to make. When you're handling coil bunks every day, it's easy to think of them as just another piece of equipment. They're not. Those little blocks of wood are helping control thousands of pounds of steel.
That's a tremendous responsibility. A steel coil doesn't get a second chance if something underneath it fails. Neither does the family driving beside you on the interstate.
Every time I load steel, I remind myself that cargo securement isn't just about passing a DOT inspection. It's about making sure everyone gets home.
My Advice to New Steel Haulers
If you're just getting into hauling steel, don't overlook your coil bunks. Buy good ones. Carry plenty of them. Inspect them often. Store them properly. Replace them when they're damaged. And never forget why they're there.
After more than 20 years on a flatbed, I've learned that the smallest pieces of equipment are often carrying the biggest responsibility.
A chain can't do its job if the coil is rolling. A binder can't stop a bad setup. Everything works together. Your bunks. Your chains. Your binders. Your blocking. Your experience — the full kit I carry ties it all together. That's what makes a safe load.
This article shares practical experience and general product guidance; it is educational and is not legal advice. Coil securement is governed by 49 CFR §393.120 — always confirm your rolling prevention and tiedowns meet the current regulation for your specific load, and inspect the strength of any bunk before it goes under steel. Some links are affiliate links; buying through them may support this site at no additional cost to you.