From the Seat · Gear Guide

The Flatbed Gear I Actually Carry

Not a catalog dump — the real securement kit I keep on the truck, why each piece is there, and the specs that matter before you spend a dime.

Published July 2026 · Updated August 2026

A flatbed is only as good as the gear in the toolbox. Here's what I actually carry — and just as important, why.

New drivers ask me all the time what they need to buy to outfit a flatbed. The honest answer is: enough of the right gear to secure any load you'll legally haul, plus the stuff that protects your cargo, your equipment, and the people around you. Below is my real kit, broken down by what it does. I've flagged solid, well-regarded options for each — but always check the working load limit and buy for the heaviest load you'll actually run.

Heads up: some links below are affiliate links — if you buy through them, it helps support this site at no extra cost to you. I only point to gear I'd actually run. Always verify the WLL tag on anything you buy and match it to your load.

The coreSecurement — Chains, Binders & Straps

This is the heart of the kit. Under FMCSA rules, your aggregate working load limit has to be at least 50% of your cargo weight — so you want enough rated gear to cover the heaviest thing you'll haul, with margin to spare.

Grade 70 Transport Chain (3/8")

3/8" G706,600 lbs WLL20 ft

Why I carry it: This is the workhorse for steel, plate, and heavy machinery. 3/8" Grade 70 gives you 6,600 lbs of WLL per chain — more than any strap — and it laughs at the sharp edges and heat that chew webbing up. Get chains with clevis grab hooks on both ends and buy a few; you build your aggregate WLL by stacking them. (Full breakdown: Grade 70 transport chain.)

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Solid options: VULCAN, Mytee Products, and Knox all make well-reviewed G70 chain-and-hook sets.

Ratchet Chain Binders

Fits 5/16"–3/8"~7,100 lbs WLLRatchet style

Why I carry it: A chain does nothing until a binder pulls it tight. I run ratchet binders over the old lever/snap style for one reason — safety. A lever binder stores energy in the handle and can snap back and hurt you; a ratchet binder tightens in controlled steps and won't kick. You need at least one binder per chain, so buy them in sets. Match the binder rating to your chain. (I go deeper on this in ratchet vs. lever binders.)

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Solid options: VULCAN folding-handle, VEVOR, and Mytee ratchet binders are all popular and well-rated.

Chain + Binder Kits (the easy start)

4-packsG70 chain + binders

Why I'd start here: If you're outfitting a truck from scratch, a matched chain-and-binder kit is the cheapest per-piece way to get a full set of rated gear that's guaranteed to work together. Buy the four-corner set and you're legal on most machinery loads out of the box.

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Solid options: Knox and TORNWELL sell complete 4-binder / 4-chain G70 kits.

4" Winch Straps with Flat Hook

4" x 30 ft5,400 lbs WLLPolyester

Why I carry it: For lumber, crated freight, pallets, and anything with a finish I don't want to gouge, straps are the right call. A 4" winch strap gives 5,400 lbs WLL, spreads pressure across the load instead of biting in, and is faster to throw than chain. Get flat hooks for standard flatbed rub rails, and buy the 30-footers. (Prefer a ratchet buckle? See my ratchet straps guide.)

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Solid options: VULCAN and Mytee winch straps are industry standards with clearly labeled WLL tags.

Protect the load & the gearCorner & Edge Protectors

Corner / Edge Protectors

V-board & plasticCheap insurance

Why I never skip these: A sharp edge is the number-one killer of straps — webbing cuts through in one hard stop. Corner protectors keep the strap off the edge, spread the pressure so you don't crush the cargo, and make your straps last three times longer. They cost a few dollars and save you both straps and loads. There's no reason not to carry a bundle. (More on edge protectors, blankets & coil mats here.)

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Solid options: VULCAN and Mytee sell plastic and V-board protectors in multipacks.
Remember the math

Whatever you buy, the rule doesn't change: your aggregate WLL must be at least 50% of the cargo weight, the lowest-rated component sets each tiedown's limit, and a strap or chain with a damaged or unreadable tag counts as zero. Buy for the heaviest load you'll run, and buy enough of it.

The tools that make it workWinch Bar, Winder & Odds and Ends

Winch Bar

SteelNon-slip handle

Why I carry it: You can't tension a winch strap without a winch bar, and you don't want a cheap one — this is a tool that puts your whole body into it, so a bar that slips or bends is dangerous. Get a solid steel bar with a non-slip grip and a mushroom tip.

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Strap Winder

Fits 2"–4"Saves your back & your straps

Why I carry it: A pile of loose, tangled straps rolling around your headache rack is a mess and it wears the webbing out. A winder rolls them up tight and clean in seconds. Small thing, big quality-of-life difference on a long week.

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The stuff nobody thinks aboutSafety Gear

Orange Traffic Cones

ReflectiveThe one nobody carries

Why I carry it — and almost nobody else does: I set cones out along the side of my trailer so people can't walk down it when I'm not standing right there. On a flatbed, you're throwing straps and swinging chains where you can't always see the far side. Cones keep foot traffic away from the danger zone. It's the cheapest piece of safety gear you'll ever buy, and one day it keeps someone from getting hurt.

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Cut-Resistant Work Gloves

Cut-resistantGrip

Why I carry it: You're handling chain, sharp steel edges, and cold binders all day. A good pair of cut-resistant gloves saves your hands and gives you grip when the metal's wet or greasy. Buy a few pairs — they wear out.

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From the seat — buy once, buy right

I've watched drivers try to save money with cheap, underrated gear and end up buying it twice — or worse, standing on the side of the interstate re-strapping a load that shifted. Rated gear isn't where you cut corners.

Buy chains and binders rated for the heaviest load you'll run, keep the tags readable, inspect everything before it goes on the trailer, and replace anything that's stretched, cut, or bent. Good gear pays for itself the first time it holds a load you weren't sure about.

Outfitting Your Flatbed

If you're building a kit from scratch, start with a matched chain-and-binder set and a handful of 4" winch straps — that covers most loads legally. Add corner protectors (cheap, essential), a solid winch bar, and a winder. Then don't forget the stuff nobody thinks about: cones, gloves, and a way to keep people clear while you work. And if you're hauling steel that needs covering, you'll want a proper set of steel tarps, too. And if you're running coils, keep a stack of coil racks and bunks on the trailer. And on machinery, measure your load height before you roll. And on lumber, run a lumber tarp set — the one with the flap. And keep a good truck GPS on the dash — it earns its place in the kit too.

Buy rated, buy enough, and buy once. The right gear in the toolbox is what turns a scary load into a routine one.

Rated gear, readable tags, and cones on the ground. — Rufus

Sources: the load limits, tie-down counts, and securement requirements in this article come from the federal rules — 49 CFR §393.106 — general securement rules · 49 CFR §393.108 — working load limits · FMCSA Driver's Handbook to Cargo Securement.

This guide shares practical experience and general product guidance; it is educational and is not legal advice. Working load limits vary by size, grade, and manufacturer — always verify the WLL tag on your own gear and confirm your securement meets 49 CFR Part 393 for your specific load. Some links are affiliate links; buying through them may support this site at no additional cost to you.